(For best results in printing out, copy and paste this entire section into a Word document.)

 

 

A guide for visitors and travelers—

Special Edition for the Newcomers Club of Cuernavaca

By Kay Godfrey
Language Link, a company representing Spanish language schools
throughout Latin America and Spain
      To arrange Spanish study at any of our associate schools, including Cuernavaca, please contact us or view our website www.langlink.com
Directors Meredith Butler / Kay Godfrey
2008 W. Kellogg Ave., Peoria, Illinois 61604 U.S.A.
Telephones 800.552.2051 309.673.9220
Mexico Office (777) 317.6971 info@langlink.com
www.langlink.com

Copyright 2009, Revised August 2009
 

God created the world in six days, and on the seventh day he rested (...) Now it is rumored that He spends weekends in Cuernavaca, with its singular climate. Some inhabitants of Mexico and others visiting from its neighbor across the border agree with God.  -  Alfonso Reyes

A warm abrazo to the Medellín Cortazar family who started me on my Mexican path many years ago.

 INTRODUCTION

Welcome to Cuernavaca! You are in a place which has attracted travelers for centuries, extending back to the time of the Aztecs. The climate is nearly perfect, the people are friendly, and you will be jumping headlong into the culture with your visit. Each person's adventure is an individual one, however. For that reason it was requested that I compile this book, a special edition for the Newcomers Club of Cuernavaca. It's a series of advice, explanations, facts and opinions -- all designed to help you explore the area. The sources are experiences gained through many years of directing groups and sending students to study Spanish, written information about the area accumulated through these years, and most of all, generous Mexican friends who have all given me their valuable time, resources and opinions.

This guide will be updated annually, and I urge you to contribute your finds and suggestions. Please call me at Language Link, U.S. 800.552.2051, Mexico (52)777.317.6971, or send your valued comments to kay@langlink.com.

QUICK FACTS

         
Population - Figures are officially at about 450,000, although the surrounding area is close to one million. These numbers increase on the weekends, as many Mexico City inhabitants, chilangos, arrive at that time.

Location - Cuernavaca is in the state of Morelos, southwest of Mexico City at a drive of about an hour and a half. To reach the city you cross mountains called the Ajusco, part of the Sierra Madre range. You then descend to Cuernavaca, located at 5,000' above sea level.

Climate - The nickname is the City of Eternal Spring, as the temperature is nearly perfect year round. It's best described by the fact that almost all houses have no central heating and rarely have air conditioning. They simply are not necessary. More details follow in CLIMATE.

Personality of the City - Cuernavaca is in essence an overgrown resort town. Since days of the Pre-Conquest it has been considered a perfect place to escape for relaxation and tranquility. Many Mexico City residents have weekend homes here, and famous residents have included Carlos Fuentes, Helen Hayes, Gabriel García Márquez, Erich Fromm, Yul Brynner, the exiled Shah of Iran, and Barbara Hutton. It is typical of the Mexican tradition to have much of the city’s beauty hidden behind walls, often adorned with vibrant bougainvillea.

Many Mexico City homeowners moved here permanently after the earthquake of 1985, and industrial plants have also arrived. Students from all over the world come to the city to study Spanish in the large number of language schools, as it is considered a nearly perfect environment in which to learn the language.

ARRIVAL

Most travelers arrive by flying into Benito Juárez International Airport with two terminals in Mexico City. Let's clear up something right away. Mexicans call the city México or el D.F., without any reference to the word for city. The formal term for the city is México D.F., meaning Distrito Federal. 

You must pass through customs, and you will have your tourist card stamped and a section removed. You will next proceed to the baggage area. There are free carts available. Proceed to the final check point where you may have your bags inspected. There is a random system used. If you get the green light, you go ahead. If you receive a red light, your bags will be opened. On the plane you will have filled out a customs declaration. The form will be collected at this point. From either terminal you will exit to waiting areas.

You can easily arrive at Cuernavaca by bus. You will need pesos (airport ATM). Pullman de Morelos buses leave directly from the airport to Cuernavaca, with departures from early morning to late evening. Complete schedule at www.pullman.com.mx. Cost is about U.S. $13. U.S. dollars will not be accepted.   
      
In Terminal 1, from where you exit after customs, you can hire a porter and simply say Pullman de Morelos. The porter will take you to the ticket counter, wait while you purchase your ticket, and then take you and your luggage to the downstairs bus. If you carry your own luggage, walk to your left. You will see signs leading you to Transporte Terrestre (Ground Transportation). The signs will lead you to an upstairs area where you will see the sign for Autobuses. The ticket counters are there.  In Terminal 2, look for the Transporte Terrestre sign or Pullman de Morelos.

In either place look for the counter labeled Pullman de Morelos. There will be a schedule of buses for Cuernavaca, and you will buy your ticket at the counter. In Terminal 1 you must go downstairs to locate the bus. In Terminal 2 the buses are directly outside the ticket counter. These are first class buses with movies shown and refreshments served. The trip takes about an hour and a half to two hours, depending on traffic. You will arrive at the bus station called Casino de La Selva.

At the bus station take a taxi to your destination. Establish the price before getting in one of the designated taxis parked outside the revolving doors of the terminal.  The average fares are between 30 and 40 pesos (not U.S. dollars).

ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

If archaeology interests you, you are in an ideal place. A quick frame of reference -

20,000 B.C. Early hunters appear in Mexico’s central valley
900-400 B.C. Olmec civilization reaches its height
200 A.D. Teotihuacan begins
600-900 A.D. Mayan culture enters its greatest age
900 A.D. Toltecs conquer the central valley
1345 A.D. Tenochtitlan (now Mexico City) founded by the Aztecs
1519 A.D. Spaniards enter Mexico
1521 A.D. Destruction of the Aztec empire, The Conquest

IN CUERNAVACA OR NEARBY 

Teopanzolco - In Colonia Vista Hermosa, this small pyramid was discovered during the 1910 Revolution when bombardment shook loose the surface soil. It was built by the local Tlahuicas before the Conquest.

Xochicalco - A central spiritual meeting place where various groups met to correct their calendars. The Temple of Quetzalcoatl has magnificent carvings depicting the meeting in the year 650 A.D., and there is a ball court and a fascinating underground chamber totally naturally illuminated on the day of the summer solstice (June 22). There is even a natural “Xray effect” created by the minerals. The hilltop setting is magnificent. Don’t miss this place!

Chalcatzingo - Built by the early Olmecs, this is among the most important petroglyphs of Mexico.

El Tepozteco - Situated high atop a mountain overlooking the valley of the nearby village of Tepoztlán, this simple temple offers a magnificent view. The steep climb of more than an hour (and you pay a fee at the top!) is only for the physically hearty, and be careful of a slippery path during rainy season. The temple was built shortly before the Conquest.

The Palacio de Cortés in downtown Cuernavaca is built on the ruins of a Tlahuica temple, and these can be viewed as you enter the museum.

For complete information on archaeological sites, visit the Tourist Office on Morelos Sur 187, Col. Las Palmas, 314.1880, www.morelostravel.com
For true professionals the INAH (Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia) is located in Colonia Acapantzingo in La Casa de La India Bonita, Matamoros 14, 312.31.08.

IN MEXICO CITY

Teotihuacan - This is what most tourists refer to as "the pyramids". It was not built by the Aztecs (a common error), but was a city of the Teotihuacanos which flourished from 400 to 800 A.D. The immense Pyramid of the Sun and Pyramid of the Moon are stunning, and it will make a very special memory if you climb to the top. The city is located to the north of Mexico City, and a visit during the day will expose you to a persistent sun. Take your hat and very comfortable shoes.

Do not miss seeing the Museum of Anthropology in Mexico City. It is considered the best in the world of museums of its type and will give you an excellent overview.

ART

Cuernavaca will give you easy access to a wealth of Mexican art. Let's begin with a cast of characters. The "Big Three" of muralism, Mexico's greatest contribution to world art, are Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros. Their murals are a stimulating way to make history, politics and social conditions come to life. Mexico City is filled with these murals, and there is a superior one by Diego Rivera in the Palacio de Cortés. It depicts the conquest of Cuernavaca. Frida Kahlo was the wife of Diego Rivera and has become a cult artist due to her surrealism and tragic life. The movie Frida will give you a good introduction to these two artists.

Most museums are closed on Mondays.

IN DOWNTOWN CUERNAVACA    (Described fully under local sites)
Museo Robert Brady
Palacio de Cortés

IN MEXICO CITY
National Art Museum - Tacuba 8 – An overview of Mexican art from prehistoric time to the present.

Rufino Tamayo Museum - Reforma and Gandhi in Chapultepec Park. Considered the last of the great Mexican masters.

Museum of Modern Art - On Reforma in Chapultepec Park. The best known of Frida Kahlo's work, The Two Fridas, can be seen here, as well as works by modern Mexican masters.

Frida Kahlo Museum - Corner of Londres and Allende in Coyoacán - House where Kahlo and Rivera lived together. Very personal feeling and highly recommended, but it's best to learn something about the artist before visiting the museum.

Franz Mayer Museum - Alameda Central. Described as a collection of marvelous everythings.

Diego Rivera's Studio - San Angel, across from the San Angel Inn. His actual working studio with a very personal feeling.

Dolores Olmedo Museum - Ave. México 5843 in La Noria, Xochimilco.  One of the newer museums in the city, it is considered one of its most impressive. . An extensive collection of the works of Rivera, and twenty five paintings by Frida Kahlo. Don't miss the outstanding collection of folk art.
  

ASSOCIATIONS AND CLUBS 

Rotary Club (Club Rotario de Cuernavaca), Ave. Morelos 316, 317.5182

Lions Club (Club de Leones), Morelos Sur 803, 312.3640

English Language Alcoholics Anonymous
“Under the Volcano” Group, Mondays, 6:30 – 8pm, Community Center Quien Te Quiere, located at the fork between Subida a Chalma and Chalma Norte, Col. Lomas de Atzingo, across from the María Inmaculada Catholic Church.
Info: Bob S. 777-318-8915 (home)
or Bob B. 777-317-7949 (home)

Newcomers Club (the best source for English speaking events) Meetings held first Friday of every month (except July and August) at St. Michael’s Hall, Calle Minerva 1, Col. Delicias.
Information Andrea Grater, 315.2272, justandiemex@aol.com.  This group is for long time residents, as well as new arrivals.

St. Michael’s Library (English language)
Calle Minerva 1, Col. Delicias 316.7049 Books for loan and used books for sale, library open Mon-Sat 10:00 AM to 12:30 PM and Fri 4:00 to 6:00 PM (closed for renovations Aug 1, 2009 – Feb, 2010, possibly later.)

ATTITUDE

Cuernavaca may not immediately enchant you. Your first reaction may be quite different from the way you feel about Mexico after a few days. Be prepared for a bit of culture shock. Even though the Mexican style of life is not completely different from your own, there will be significant changes to which you will have to adjust. Mexico is a less developed country than some, and events such as power failures and scarcity of water are common. Mexicans tolerate these situations with great patience, and it would be wise for you to do the same. 

Please remember that since you are the visitor, the burden of cultural adjustment is upon you. Be on the lookout for cultural misunderstandings. The exact same set of facts or circumstances may be perceived very differently between you and the Mexicans. Do not jump to a conclusion which may be erroneous. If there is a misunderstanding, try to step back and analyze it from the Mexican point of view. It often helps to be very precise in your communication. Don't assume that you will be fully understood if you are using idiomatic expressions in English or if you are operating within your own cultural framework. Start from a basic point and explain fully.

Mexico is not neat and tidy. It does not fit into precise and orderly boxes. For many people this is part of its charm. It gives you something to ponder, will constantly surprise you, and will amaze you with its beauty and variety. If you spend your entire trip comparing quality of plumbing or efficiency of bureaucracies, you will completely miss the point. Stop comparing and celebrate the differences. 

BATHROOMS

Let's get down to basics here. Many public bathrooms in Mexico are quite unacceptable in terms of cleanliness, although airports and government facilities usually do a good job. If you are out on an excursion, you are probably best off to locate a nice looking restaurant. If you are decently dressed and look presentable you can ask to use the bathroom and most often the request will be granted. Sometimes you can buy a bottled soft drink or water para llevar (take out), use the bathroom, then take your drink with you. Downtown McDonald's is a good place for a bathroom stop. When traveling for the day, carry your own small packet of tissues (toilet paper is sometimes scarce), and take every opportunity presented to use a bathroom when offered. It may be quite a while before the next acceptable one comes along. In nicer places there may be an attendant who will hand you paper. It is customary in these places to put a few pesos in the always obvious small plate.

Because of older plumbing systems, many people place used toilet paper in the waste basket, not the bowl. It may seem unappealing, but it is much less so than a plugged toilet.

BOOKS ABOUT MEXICO

 (all available in the Language Link Shop at www.langlink.com)
Non-Fiction:
Distant Neighbors: A Portrait of the Mexicans, Alan Riding
Good Neighbors: Communicating with The Mexicans, J. Condon
Conquest: Mexico, Hugh Thomas
Frida Kahlo, Hayden Herrera
The Labyrinth of Solitude, Octavio Paz
The Mexicans: A Personal Portrait of a People, Patrick Oster
Limits to Friendship: The United States and Mexico, J. Castañeda
The Children of Sánchez, Oscar Lewis
The Discovery and Conquest of Mexico, William Prescott
People's Guide to Mexico, Carl Franz
Opening Mexico, Julia Preston and Samuel Dillon

Fiction:
Aztec, Aztec Autumn, Aztec Blood, Gary Jennings
The Old Gringo, Carlos Fuentes
Stones for Ibarra, Harriet Doerr
Like Water For Chocolate, Laura Esquivel

BEAUTY SALONS, BARBERS, SPAS

You will find very reasonable prices in most of these places. If you ever wanted to splurge on a manicure or pedicure, this is the place. Please remember to include a tip of 10% for services.

Villa Béjar, Ave. Domingo Diez 2350, Tel. 311.3300, a very international shop with luxury prices. No appointments taken.

Clínica Estética (inside Coral Gables Gym) San Jerónimo 207, Tel 311.3807.

Estética Quin - Privada del Prado #9, Col. Pradera, excellent haircuts, appointments needed, Tel 313.8767.

Spa Hostería Las Quintas - Tel. 318-3949, Díaz Ordaz 9, Col. Acapantzingo

Misión del Sol - Ave. Gral. Diego Díaz González 31, Col. Parres, inform@misiondelsol.com, www.misiondelsol.com, Tel 321.0999. Expensive, but beautiful and world class spa. A specialty is the temixcal steam bath.

Joss Claude, San Diego 103, Col. Vista Hermosa, 311.9468, full service luxury salon.

Spa Villa Vida, Eucaliptos 77, near school, 313.2525, lovely, luxurious spa, facial $40, hydrating mudwrap $70.

Cocoyoc - There is a spa at the resort hotel Cocoyoc. See Haciendas. Facial $35, Salt Wrap $40.

Plaza Laurel, Avila Camacho - Park Avenue.  Walk-ins are accepted. Convenient place for men's haircuts, also. Good massages, manicures and pedicures.

Anel et Chuy -Salon in Plaza Cuernavaca, appointments at 318.9308, 312.3487, aneletchuy@prodigy.net.mx, acrylic nails, hair extensions and even “permanent” eyelashes.

Kleen Day Spa, Rio Conchos 109, Esq. Rio Panuco, Col. Vista Hermosa, 176.8888, 315.7488.

La Moderna - Barber Shop,Lerdo de Tejada 4 (Centro) Described as a very macho style shop.

CHILDREN

Children can easily be accommodated in Cuernavaca. An alternative is to have the child attend the local Cendi (excellent government supervised preschools). The instruction is in Spanish, and the cost is less than $50 per week. For longer stays children can often be accommodated in local Montessori schools. One, Escuela Montessori de Morelos is a bilingual school and accepts students from 1-12 years of age. Actores 104, Col. San Antón, 317.1544.

A favorite activity of children is to visit the new Cuernavaca branch of the Mexico City Children’s Museum Papalote. It is located across from Costco. This is a lively, interactive museum which children of all ages greatly enjoy.

CHURCHES and RELIGIOUS INFORMATION

Baptist
Iglesia Bautista Monte Abraím, Ocotepec 612, Col. Reforma, Tel.311.4362, Service in English Sundays - 8:30am, 10 am in Spanish.

Episcopal
Iglesia Episcopal Mexicana San Miguel, Degollado 301, Centro, Tel 312.6568, Mass in Spanish Sundays, noon, no English service.

Anglican-Episcopal Church of Mexico
St. Michael & All Angels (all Christian denominations welcome), Minerva 1, Col. Las Delicias (behind Superama on Río Mayo via Río Pánuco) English Services Sundays, 10:45am, Sunday School in English / Infant Nursery

Jewish
El Eishel Nuestro Hogar Madero 402, Col. Miraval, for information call 777 318 6800, eleishel@prodigy.net.mx.

Roman Catholic
English language mass at the Carmen Chapel near the cathedral, 9:30 AM Sundays
Mariachi Mass - please inquire about times Sundays at the Cathedral downtown.

CLIMATE

Cuernavaca is located at 5,000 feet above sea level. This means 12 to 15% less oxygen which can affect breathing. Alcohol tolerance is cut by half, and smoking affects your lungs differently. It is very important to drink a good quantity of water to stay hydrated.

The dry season is October through April. The evenings can be chilly, but never bitterly cold. Daytime average temperatures are in the 70's and low 80's. In other words, sun bathing is comfortable during the day, but you may need a light jacket for evenings. April and May are considered the only hot months, as winter has passed, but the cooling summer rains have not yet arrived. June to sometimes the middle of September is the rainy season. Most often it rains in the evening, but showers can be very heavy. Locals call these aguaceros. During this season there can also be storms at night and accompanying loss of electricity. Daytime temperatures at this time are usually in the low 80's. You should always carry an umbrella or raingear, as rain clouds can roll in quickly. When it has rained, the temperatures can lower quickly to the 60's, and a jacket or sweatshirt will feel quite good in the evening or early morning.

Do be careful of the sun in the day. It may not seem to be hot, but you will sunburn very quickly. If you are walking around a great deal, wear a sun hat and put on your sunscreen. Otherwise, the heat will creep up on you, and you can become dehydrated or badly burned.

Check weather at www.wunderground.com/global/stations/76726.htm

CRIME

Cuernavaca is most likely safer than many U.S. cities of similar size. However, in any country where poverty is prevalent, tourists are often targets for pickpockets. The Mexican thief is much more interested in your money or possessions than in committing an act of violence against you. For this reason, it is foolish to walk around with large quantities of cash. Please only carry what you need for the day, and there is no reason to carry a credit card unless you plan to use it that day. Also, do not leave valuables such as jewelry or expensive cameras out in the open. They should be kept in a drawer or in a locked suitcase. You are being very unkind to place temptation directly in the face of someone who may be struggling to provide food for his family.

Be culture-sensitive and do not flaunt your possessions. Women should be careful about the type of handbag they carry and how they carry it. A well known trick is for a pickpocket to use a razor blade and slice the bottom of a bag. Also, never leave your purse foolishly unattended in a restaurant or especially a bar or disco. Men should be particularly careful where they place a wallet. If carried in a back pocket, it can be cleverly lifted without your ever knowing what happened.

Be aware that drug laws in Mexico are quite stiff. You want no part of a Mexican jail, and the legal system in Mexico requires that you stay in jail until your trial. You can also be arrested and fined for public intoxication. A foreign country is no place to take risks or indulge in questionable behavior.

CULTURAL DIFFERENCES

Although you will find that most Mexicans have the same daily concerns, joys and perhaps the same dreams as you, you will find different approaches toward human relations. It is important to be aware and to respect these differences.

Courtesy is of supreme importance to Mexicans. This is expressed by greeting or departing from each person with a handshake or a cheek kiss. You should not depart from the dinner table or from a group in conversation without saying con permiso. Buen provecho (similar to bon apetit) is usually said before eating.

When you enter a shop you should greet the clerk. Hola is more of an introduction to a more extended conversation, although Mexicans quickly pick up that it's easy for foreigners to understand. It is preferable to use buenos días, buenas tardes or buenas noches (after 7:00 pm).
 
There are many formulaic courtesy phrases such as -
Me haría el favor de...
Si fuera tan amable de...

It's quite insulting to say something such as "How much is that in real money?" if you are asking a clerk a price in dollars. Also, lay money down respectfully. Never toss it down. That is considered quite rude. Ask for everything with courtesy, and then be certain to express gratitude for the service received. On the other hand, don't expect a formal written note of gratitude. This is not routine practice.

Things which Mexicans find offensive:
1. Slamming doors.

2. Sleeping or napping on a bed on top of the bedspread.

3. Not acknowledging that Mexicans are Americans, too. It's the name of the continent, not just part of the U.S.A.

4. A critical comment without a great deal of softer statements coming before and after. Direct criticism is difficult for Mexicans to take without feeling personal resentment.

5. Not eating food when you yourself have put it on your plate. Don't serve it to yourself if you're not going to eat it.

6. Putting feet on tables.

7. Coming to the table without a shirt.

8. Offering your opinion on how Mexicans should improve their country. You may do this if you are very knowledgeable about past history, cultural influences and economic conditions...and if you are among very good friends. Otherwise, it's best to be a respectful listener.

9. Jumping directly into business matters without first acknowledging the person through informal conversation about family, the city, etc.

10. Not respecting the cost of a telephone line by talking for hours.

DRESS

Cuernavaca is a very informal place. Very casual clothes are the norm. During the day shorts (longer shorts are a better choice than running shorts) and jeans are appropriate. For clubs in the evening men should wear jeans or long pants, a nicer shirt (no T shirts) and shoes which are not sandals or tennis shoes. Women can wear shorts everywhere in the day, but they should avoid the shorter ones when downtown or on public transportation. For dressier places, nicer pants or a skirt will be quite acceptable. College women have described the clothes worn to clubs as "nice bar clothes.”

High heels are not necessary, but shoes other than tennis shoes are more danceable if you are in a club. There is absolutely no need for a very dressy outfit or expensive jewelry. An important need for all is extremely comfortable walking shoes which are sturdy. Avoid wearing revealing beachwear on the streets.

DOWNTOWN CUERNAVACA

Familiarize yourself with the downtown area as soon as possible. Your main landmarks can be the Palacio de Cortés, the Cathedral and the Zócalo. Downtown is a great place to observe Mexicans. You can sit in one of the outside cafes, have a beer or coffee, and watch the Mexican world go by.

Cathedral (Catedral) - It was dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption at the end of the 16th century. The capilla abierta is one of the oldest in Mexico. This area was used to preach to the indigenous population in efforts to convert them to Christianity. As you enter the cathedral itself, notice the immense baptismal font of stone. The interior was greatly modified in 1957 and has a rather contemporary feel. Look up on the wall, and you will see a very interesting mural. This was only recently uncovered, and it depicts the martyrdom of missionaries in Japan at the end of the sixteenth century. One of them was San Felipe de Jesús, a Mexican saint crucified in Nagasaki, Japan, in 1597. This is the same story told in the novel Shogun. There are always surprises in Mexico!

On the opposite side there is a small chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Guadalupe. Have a look inside, and when you exit, turn left. This will lead you to the interior courtyard of the convent-monastery of San Francisco, built in 1532. On the wall is an interesting "roll call", with drawings of the monks and nuns from the sixteenth century. In the far corner you may find an impressive large wooden statue of St. Christopher. This piece was recently in a large exhibition of Mexican art which toured the United States, and it is considered quite significant. It may be on loan to another exhibit.

Outside the cathedral you will see two other churches. The Chapel of Carmen was built at the end of the eighteenth century, and the Temple of the Third St. Francis Order dates from the beginning of the 1700's. The Temple is a popular place for local weddings.

Cortes' Palace (Palacio de Cortés) and Cuauhnáhuac Museum (inside) - Admission fee is about $3. Closed Mondays. Tues - Sun, 9am - 6pm. The fortress style building was built by the conquistador Hernán Cortés on the remains of a Tlahuica temple. Inside is a museum with a recently revised collection, and there are several areas worth your attention. The principal one is the mural by Diego Rivera on the second floor. It's a terrific history lesson in the conquest of the area of Morelos. The mural was commissioned by the U.S. Ambassador to Mexico in the 30's, Dwight Morrow. He was quite popular here, and his daughter Anne Morrow was the wife of Charles Lindbergh of aviation fame. Anne Morrow Lindbergh is also known for the book of poetry Gift From The Sea.

When you view the figure of Morelos (with a bandana on his head), note that his face is really that of the artist himself, Rivera. There is a great visual trick involving this figure. Walk slowly by it from left to right, and the eyes will follow you, as well as the turn of the body.

In the museum there is also a good-sized representation of the state costume, the chinelo, on the second floor. This strange looking outfit dates from shortly after the Conquest, when the local people were taught to re-enact the victory of Spaniards over the Moors in the year 711 A.D. Another interesting group of items are photographs from the Revolution of 1910.

Jardín Borda (Borda Garden) is located on Morelos 271 just opposite the cathedral on the left. Closed Mondays. There is a small entry fee. This is worth a visit on its own, but there are also many cultural events which take place here, everything from puppet shows to recitals. Check the posted calendar. The house and gardens were built by José De La Borda, one of Mexico's silver magnates, in 1783. He was responsible for the magnificent church in Taxco. His motto was "God gives to Borda, Borda gives to God". His son became a priest, and his daughter became a nun.

The house was also occupied by Emperor Maximiliano when in Cuernavaca. There is a beautiful group of paintings which are hanging in the auditorium. They depict the entire story of Maximiliano and Carlota, including the charming figure of his native mistress, La India Bonita, coyly peeking out from behind a tree. You can stroll down by the artificial lake which is the same one shown in the paintings you saw earlier, and you can even rent a boat to row on the lake.

Robert Brady Museum, also known as Casa de la Torre, Netzahualcoyotl #4. Exit the main gate of the cathedral, turn right, and walk until reaching the first street. Then turn right. An advance reservation is preferable at 314.3529. Open Tuesday through Sunday, 10:00 AM - 6:00 PM. This was the sixteenth century house of the first bishop of Cuernavaca and became the private home of an American, Robert Brady, 1928-1986, who restored the house and filled it with treasures from all over the world, including works by Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo and Miguel Covarrubias. There are 1,300 art pieces, including furniture and primitive art. It is an amazingly eclectic house. Admission fee is about $3, and the tour in English or in Spanish takes an hour. This is always a favorite place for visitors and is highly recommended. It is much better with a guide, although there is material for a self-guided tour.

There is a tourist trolley located at the downtown Zócalo which offers drive-by tours of important sites of Cuernavaca.

Papalote, a branch of the children’s museum of Mexico City, is not downtown, but a short distance away, across from Costco.

ELECTRICITY

All appliances such as hairdryers will function without any adapters in Mexico. Rarely, an older house may not accept the newer plugs. In this case a quick trip to a supermarket will get you an adapter for minimal cost

 

E-MAIL

There is a wide variety of internet places. You can access your own web based account such as hotmail.com or yahoo.com. It is quite convenient for you to rent time at any of the internet places in town.

New internet cafes are opening every day in Cuernavaca. Following are a few. It is quite impossible to keep these current, as they open and close at the blink of an eye. It is best to ask the locals where the closest one may be. Ask about un café de internet. Costs range from $1 to $2 per hour of usage, and some clock your time by the minute and charge you for less than the full hour.

The major problem you will encounter with email when using a Spanish keyboard is the "at" sign or @. In Spanish this is called arroba. At times it will be in the same place as an English keyboard, over the 2 key. However, in most computers in Latin America, you access it by holding down the ALT key on the right side of the keyboard, and then pressing the Q key. If this doesn't work, you can always ask the attendant about the location of this arroba.

Internet cafés in Cuernavaca
Downtown—There are two internet places located on the street which goes from the cathedral toward the Palacio de Cortés. The larger one (on the second floor) has reasonably priced printing service.
 

EMERGENCIES

Always carry with you a card with your local contact and phone number. In an emergency there will always be an easy local contact.

The state has established an emergency number for tourists. If you have any problem such as being pickpocketed, are injured, or anything at all occurs in which you need assistance, dial 066 from any private or pay phone without cost. The answerer will speak English, and you will receive rapid help. This is similar to our 911 emergency, but specifically designed for foreign visitors.

The emergency number of the Red Cross (Cruz Roja) is 065, and they provide ambulance service.

EXCURSIONS

You can very easily visit all these places on your own through public transportation.

México D.F. is immensely big and immensely interesting. Don't be put off by the pollution stories. Yes, pollution does exist, but it is not very noticeable if you are in the city as a visitor for only a few days.

There are frequent public buses to Mexico City, Pullman de Morelos, and they leave from both the downtown station at Abasolo 106 and from the Casino de la Selva station near Plaza Cuernavaca.

There are many luxury hotels included in guidebooks, but an inexpensive, well located choice which is highly recommended is the Posada Viena Hotel. It is two blocks from the Zona Rosa at Marsella 28, www.posadavienahotel.com hotelvie@prodigy.net.mx, Tel 555.566.0700. Rooms are about $60 per night, and you can book in advance through their website. They will arrange reliable transportation to the bus station for arrival in Cuernavaca (or to the airport).

Another costlier choice and found in most guidebooks is the Hotel Majestic in the Centro Histórico, www.majestic.com.mx, 73 Ave. Madero, +52.55.5521.8600
In the airport there is a Marriott Hotel and a Camino Real (both expensive). A mile away is a Holiday Inn with shuttle (less expensive).

When hiring a taxi make certain it has a functioning taxímetro. You pay only what it measures. Take only authorized taxis in this city. They are painted red and gold.

Taxco is a very picturesque silver city with a bus ride of about two hours. The bus line is either Estrella Blanca (Cuauhtémoc) or Estrella de Oro. Buses leave every hour on the hour. Be certain to visit the magnificent Santa Prisca Church, and bring lots of pesos for shopping in the many platerías. You will see silver in more styles and designs than you ever could imagine, and the town itself is a delight for photographers.

Tepoztlán is a nearby town (less than an hour by Directo bus or minivan), and it makes an easy daytrip for you to do on your own. A taxi will take you there for about US$14. You can also get there by bus. To catch the bus go to the downtown public market where departures are frequent. You pay for your ticket when you board (small change, please), and the cost is less than $1. The big market days are Wednesday and Sunday, with Sunday being the bigger one.

When you arrive by bus, you will be just out of the downtown area and may have to walk several blocks downhill to arrive at the center of town. You can also take a taxi if you don't choose to walk. As you enter the town you will see vendor stalls lining the street which leads off to the right. There are many types of artesanías at good prices. Since this is a place with a tradition of magic, you can have a tarot reading for about $15 or have your palm read for $10.

Walking down the main street where all the vendors and shops are, look to your left about halfway down. You will see the top of a church. Head toward it, and you will find the Convento de la Natividad, a sixteenth century gem. The accompanying church is not unique in its interior, but its plateresque style facade is one of the finest examples of sixteenth century art. The carved figures have no depth, as the indigenous sculptors were carving things they had never seen or imagined, only what was described to them or drawn flat on paper. There is no charge to enter the convent which was built by the Dominicans shortly after the conquest. The thickness of the walls is amazing, and the views from the second floor are impressive. Be sure to see the newly restored frescoes on the first floor. There is a recently added museum shop worth a visit on the first floor.

Tepoztlán is known for its beautiful mountains, very unique in form. Look to the right in the dip between two of the tallest ones and you will see a flat roofed structure. This is a temple built at 600 meters above the valley by the local Tlahuicas in 1482 A.D. It was dedicated to Ometochtli, associated with the god of pulque and is called the Tepozteco. If you are in good physical condition, a climb to the top will give you an unbelievable view of the valley. To reach the entrance walk down the street you were on coming from the bus. At the end of it is the entrance to the path. Be prepared for very steep steps with no handrails, and you will also be charged a small fee at the top. The climb will take at least one hour.

Comida is enjoyable in Tepoztlán. Recommended is the restaurant Los Colorines (on the street leading to the Tepozteco path, Tepozteco 13). After eating stop for dessert at Santa Clara, down the same street. Try mango or tequila ice cream....special treats. Another restaurant on the major shopping street is La Sandía Azul, on the left toward the far end. If you want a more elegant atmosphere with beautifully presented food, try El Ciruelo, Zaragoza 17, Tel. 395.1037. Reach this by walking on the inside wide path through the market in front of the church toward the mountains until you reach the next street. Turn right onto this street, and you will see the restaurant's sign. Another interesting restaurant is Axitla, on the same street you walk down to climb up to the Tepozteco.

Dusk is considered a magical time in this town, and an overnight stay allows you to enjoy the enchantment. A recommended hotel is Hotel Posada del Tepozteco, Reservations 739.395.0010, www.tepozteco.com, tepozhot@prodigy.net.mx. Enjoy the day in Tepoztlán, and see if you do not feel especially energized. The town of 13,000 is known for its magical qualities and the magnetic lines. It is said that cellular phones will not function in the town due to this magnetism.

Las Grutas (caves) de Cacahuamilpa - beautiful natural formations which are quite large. Use the Estrella Blanca bus line. The bus is one known as a guajolotero, meaning that it stops at all the little towns along the way. Be prepared for the local color of the “chicken bus.”

Acapulco is near for those who can't live without a visit to the beach. The trip takes about 4 hours, and the buses are quite comfortable. Use the Estrella Blanca bus line with either the Futura or Turistar bus, departing every hour. Another choice is Estrella de Oro, with a nicer terminal and stops in the Diamante area, as well as downtown. You should reserve your ticket and purchase it at least two days in advance. Acapulco is considered paradise by the Mexican people, and the tourism officials have done an excellent job of cleaning up the beautiful beaches. The not to be missed sight is La Quebrada, setting for the world famous cliff divers. There is an abundance of night life and exquisite scenery. If you are a sportsman, you can get together a group and hire a fishing boat for the day.

Las Estacas is located an hour outside Cuernavaca. It has beautiful natural springs, a pool, and a tropical jungle setting. A Tarzan movie was filmed here, and it is very easy to imagine swinging through the vines.

Lake Tequesquitengo is less than 1 hour away. Boat rentals for water skiing are popular.

Puebla and Cholula are twin cities easily reached by a several hour bus ride (Oro busline). Puebla is the fourth largest city in Mexico and has a colorful history. Cholula is the site of the world's largest pyramid in diameter, and the earth covered mound is capped with a chapel. The churches in Cholula are absolutely unique and breathtaking. This area is famous for Talavera style tiles and pottery and candies. 

FAMILIES

Mexican families come in all shapes and sizes, and very seldom do they fit the profile of only mother and father plus 2.5 children. Divorce is becoming more common in Mexico, and there are many single mothers. The extended family is quite evident, however, and it is common to have several generations living happily together in one home. Relatives seem to be everywhere, and there is always a sense of obligation toward helping out a family member. Enjoy the warmth you will find in Cuernavaca. It will definitely enhance your stay.

Mexicans place great emphasis on good manners which show consideration toward others. Please be thoughtful in your dealings with them. Your efforts will be very much appreciated, and you will often be surprised by the Mexican generosity of spirit and time.

FOOD AND DRINK

Prepare your stomach for a different schedule. Eat your desayuno heartily, as you will not eat again until your comida, the main meal of the day in Mexico, usually about 2:00pm. This is the heaviest meal of the day and may include several courses. Your last meal is a very light supper, cena, eaten at 7:30 PM or later. Some things in town close down from 2:00 to 5:00 PM so that Mexicans can leisurely enjoy their main meal. There is a great variety of foods eaten, and part of your adventure is trying something new. If you're a picky eater, you can live very well just on the wonderful soups and breads. Just don't expect Mexican food to be as your idea of it may be. The authentic cuisine is often quite different than the versions which are seen outside the country. The word taco will take on a whole new dimension.

Soft drinks are called refrescos, and come in all flavors, including diet versions (called light in Spanish). Carbonated mineral water is commonly ordered by a brand name Tehuacán. If you want it non-fizzy, order agua mineral sin gas. Popular brands of cerveza include Corona, XX Lager, Sol, Negra Modelo (heavy and dark), Tecate (Regular and Light and drunk with accompanying lime), Modelo (Regular and Light), Carta Blanca, Superior, Bohemia, Victoria. There are few imported beers in Mexico, but you won't miss them.

Perhaps one of your first experiences in ordering in Spanish may be a drink, so this will put you a bit more in the know. Mixed drinks which are popular are Margarita, Piña Colada, Sangría (preparada means with vodka or rum - natural means alone), Tequila Sunrise, Daiquirí (de limón and de fresa - strawberry), Vampiro (tequila with a tomato mixture called sangrita), and Desarmador (Screwdriver). Kahlúa is often served as an after dinner drink. One type is called Beso de Angel, with cream floating on the top. Brandy brands include Presidente, Viejo Vergel. Rum brands are Bacardí, Appleton Añejo, Solera. Tequila brands are Sauza, Herradura, Cuervo, Tres Magueyes, Orendáin and Don Julio. If you want the very best (not inexpensive, but like a fine brandy), order reposado or añejo. Tequila is often drunk straight up with lime and salt on the side. A common chaser is called sangrita - a light, tomato based mixture. But sip a fine tequila; don’t shoot it!

Imported drinks such as scotch, bourbon, and after dinner drinks such as Amaretto will be very expensive. Be prepared to pay the price of an import.

Straight up is called solo. On the rocks is en las rocas, but be careful of where you drink this way because of the possibility of contaminated ice.

In clubs or antros it is common for Mexicans to order an entire bottle of rum or tequila for the whole table. It will come with six sodas, glasses and ice.

Wines in Mexico are steadily improving. The better brands are L.A. Cetto (pronounced Chetto), and Domecq. A very good white wine with a beautiful bouquet is made by Monte Xanic. The reds (vino tinto) are constantly improving, and many of the drier white wines are quite good. Chilean and Argentine wines are a great buy.

Ice Cream - Top brand is Santa Clara, with stores located in Plaza Laurel (see shopping), Plaza Cuernavaca, and others throughout the city. Their yogurt is also very good. Ice cream is called de leche, and sherbet is called de agua or nieve. 

HACIENDAS

The state of Morelos is filled with many haciendas dating from the colonial era, and some have been beautifully restored. Most of these were sugar cane haciendas, as this crop was known as the "green gold" of Morelos. Within the city you can visit the Hacienda de Cortés, Tel. 315.8844, www.haciendadecortes.com, Plaza Kennedy 90 por Paseo Cuauhnáhuac - an interesting place for a drink or dinner.

Another beautifully restored hacienda is Hotel Hacienda de Cocoyoc, Tel. 735.356.2211, located about 50 minutes outside the city off the highway to Cuautla. It is now a luxury resort hotel with golf course, horses and swimming. To reach it you can hire a taxi or take the Estrella Roja bus to Oaxtepec. It will let you off less than five minutes (2 kilometers) from the entrance to the hacienda. You can take a cab from the Oaxtepec bus station for about $2. The prices are surprisingly reasonable both for rooms and food. The grounds are lovely, and this is a very special place to spend an afternoon or a weekend. There is also a spa, riding stables, and a golf course. www.cocoyoc.com.mx, Toll free US 800.537.8483 

HEALTH

Before arriving it would be prudent to see if your medical insurance provides coverage while out of the country. Medicare does not cover you when out of the U.S. Experts say the most important coverage to have is medical evacuation benefits. In case you are in an area where medical care would not be available for your specific situation, you would be flown back to the U.S. Also, coverage for accidents such as a broken limb can be welcome. You can buy an accident/health policy through Language Link from Travelex, a very reputable company. For information on how to do this, from the U.S. or Canada, call Language Link 800.552.2051 or contact info@langlink.com. You can also call Travelex, 800.228.9792 or see their website www.travelex-insurance.com. You will need to provide the Location Number 13-1069. This insurance will cover accidents, illness, and emergency evacuation. The cost depends on the length of your stay. This must be arranged prior to your departure.

For any foreign travel, most doctors now recommend Havrix, a vaccine for Hepatitis A, transmitted in food and water. This provides lifetime immunity. It is also wise to see that you have had a tetanus shot within the last ten years.

Many people are concerned about traveler's diarrhea, commonly known as turista. In most cases it is a problem which you can avoid. A time tested remedy, not a drug, is to take acidophillus tablets before each meal. It produces the same effect as if you were eating yogurt, but is more convenient. It merely increases the good bacteria in your system in order to provide you with better defenses. These can be purchased at health food stores and some drug stores in the U.S. and should be started several days before you arrive in Mexico. If you choose to start taking them in Mexico, they are known by the brand name Lacteol-Fort. They are a preventative, however, and will not help much if the diarrhea has already begun. In most cases one or two tablets of Imodium, an over the counter medication, will solve the problem quickly. Obviously, you should alter your diet for a few days. Good soups and bread can see you through your bout. Keep well hydrated with plenty of liquids, and stay away from alcohol. Mexicans favor feeding you bananas with the small black seeds removed and also, a concoction of Coca Cola and cornstarch. It does seem to be effective.

In almost all cases the problem can be completely avoided by carefully choosing what you eat and drink. Water is the most important factor. Use only bottled or purified water for brushing your teeth and for drinking. This water is quite safe. Be careful where you have a drink with ice cubes. In all restaurants mentioned in this book you can safely have a drink with ice. If you are the least bit unsure of any other place, however, make your choice something which comes directly in a bottle. The phrase is sin hielo (without ice).

Fruits and vegetables will have been purified in good restaurants. This means that you can have a great salad or an unpeeled vegetable in one of the better restaurants mentioned in this book.

Although it will be very tempting, DO NOT eat food sold on the streets. Many locals will not do this either, as the government often publishes warnings about the high contamination of such products. The absolute worst thing you can eat on the street is ceviche, made from raw fish. It is almost a certain recipe for a stomach disaster.

You should bring with you a good supply of any prescription drugs you require. In case you need to replace something, it is helpful to have with you the original bottle with the pharmacy label. Many drugs requiring prescriptions in the U.S. are sold over the counter here, so your medicine may be quite easy to replace, and the price may be less.

There is excellent medical service with well trained doctors in Cuernavaca. Ask for recommendations through your lodging. Fees are very reasonable.

For other minor medical needs:

Gripa - the Mexican catchall word for cold, sore throat, flu. A good over the counter medicine for this is XL 3.
Insect Bites - For prevention ask for repelante contra moscos.

Pharmacies:

Farmacia Pradera, Emiliano Zapata 104

Farmacia Catedral, Morelos 138 (across from Jardín Borda).

Farmacia de Jesús, Morelos Norte 910

Mega Comercial Mexicana (downtown and La Selva) have well stocked pharmacies with 20% discount,

Farmacias Ahorro - 30% discounts, located at Avila Camacho and San Jerónimo, near Plaza Laurel, open 24 hours.

HISTORY NECESSITIES

History of Cuernavaca
The Pre-Conquest name of Cuernavaca was Cuauhnáhuac, which means next to the woods. At that time the city was inhabited by an indigenous group called the Tlahuicas who paid tribute to the powerful Aztecs. The Tlahuicas first arrived about the tenth century.

In the year 1523 the Spanish conqueror of Mexico, Hernan Cortés, chose Cuernavaca as the site for his palace, making it the headquarters of the territory held under his title, Marqués del Valle de Oaxaca. This included the present state of Morelos.

At Cortés' request Franciscan priests arrived in 1525. The following years of the sixteenth century witnessed great building projects including churches, cathedrals and convents, as the missionary priests exerted great efforts to Christianize the indigenous locals.

The colonial period was dominated by the cultivation of sugar cane, using the encomienda system. This system exploited the local people, but the profits for the landowners were immense.

In the next two significant periods, names from the state of Morelos played major roles. In the War of Independence from Spain in 1810, a priest named José María Morelos was a key leader. The state now bears his name, as well as the major avenue of Cuernavaca. In the Revolution of 1910, the people's hero was Emiliano Zapata, also from Morelos.

It is quite impossible to condense Mexican history enough to fit the size of this book, but you should at least know who the following characters were, as well as those mentioned previously.

Hernán Cortés - Spanish conqueror of Mexico.

La Malinche - his female interpretor and mistress, used as a symbol for a traitor to the Mexicans.

1521 - destruction of Aztec empire.

1531 - vision of a dark skinned Virgin Mary and a shrine is built, honoring her as the patron saint of Mexico. The veneration of the Virgin of Guadalupe becomes a unifying factor in Mexican Catholicism.

1535 - First viceroy, Don Antonio de Mendoza arrives and colonial government begins.

1810 - Father Miguel Hidalgo begins the 11 year war for independence from Spain.

1821 - Mexican independence completed, led by Agustín de Iturbide who later declares himself emperor.

1846-48 - Mexico fights war against the U.S. and loses more than half its territory. (This is still a very sensitive issue with many Mexicans.)

1858-1862 - Benito Juárez, a Zapotec self-made lawyer, leads Mexico. He is considered the Mexican counterpart of Abraham Lincoln.

1863 - Mexico is seized by the French and Maximilian of Austria is declared emperor.

1867 - Benito Juárez reclaims the government and Maximilian is executed.

1876 - Porfirio Díaz becomes president, and for the next thirty five years exists the period known as the Porfiriato.|

1910 - Mexican Revolution, Zapata leading agrarian forces in the south and Pancho Villa leading forces of the north.

1934 - President Lázaro Cárdenas makes good the revolution's promise and redistributes fifty million acres of land.

1988 - Carlos Salinas de Gortari elected president, and Mexico sees great expansion with heavy foreign investment.

1993 - Ernesto Zedillo Ponce de León elected president. In December the peso is greatly devalued, currently reaching half of its former value. Interest rates soar, and high inflation sets in. Mexicans refer to it as la crisis.

2000 - Election of President Vicente Fox, breaking the long domination of the PRI political party.

2006 - Election of President Felipe Calderón.

HOLIDAYS

January 1 - New Year's Day

February 5 - Constitution Day

March 21 - Birthday of Benito Juárez

Good Friday and often the Thursday before Easter. The entire week before Easter is called Semana Santa and is the biggest vacation period of the year.

April 10 Birthday of Emiliano Zapata

May 1 - Labor Day

September 16 - Independence Day

November 1, 2 - Day of the Dead (banks open)

November 20 - Revolution of 1910

December 12 - Virgin of Guadalupe

December 25 - Christmas (most celebrations occur on December 24, and Christmas Day itself is rather quiet) 

HOTELS

All costs quoted are approximated in US dollars and include the 15% IVA tax.
When calling from out of Mexico, be sure to add 011.52.777 (international, country code and Morelos area code if calling Cuernavaca)

Recommended Mexico City Hotel—Hotel Posada Viena, Posada Viena Hotel., hotelvie@prodigy.net.mx, http://www.posadavienahotel.com.mx,
Tel (55) 55-92-73-12
From U.S., Toll free 888-698-0690 Rooms are about $60 per night., and you can book in advance through their website.

Recommended Cuernavaca Hotels
Hotel costs are high in this area. There are very few real economy choices.

Recommended B & Bs are La Nuestra, Casa Chocolate and Your Host Inn.  All have easily located websites.

Moderate
Posada Tlaltenango, Privada Eucalipto 77, Jardines de Tlaltenango, Tel 313.2525, www.posadatlaltenango.com.mx, single $70, spa on premises.

Hacienda de Cortés, Plaza Kennedy 90 por Paseo Cuauhnáhuac, Tel 315.8844, 316.0867, www.hotelhaciendadecortes.com, gerencia@hotelhaciendadecortes.com, single $108.

Misión Cuernavaca (Maximiliano and Carlota), Galeana 125, Col. Acapantzingo, Tel 318.2010, www.hotelesmision.com, single $90.

Deluxe
Hostería Las Quintas, Blvd. Díaz Ordaz 9, Tel 318.3949 Fax 318.3895, reservas@hlasquintas.com
www.hlasquintas.com, Toll Free in U.S. 888.772.7639, single $190.

Villa Béjar, Avenida Domingo Diez 2350, Tel 311.3300, villabejar@villabejar.com.mx, www.villabejar.com.mx, single $150.

Hotel Posada María Cristina, Blvd. Juárez 300, Col.. Centro, Tel 312.9126, www.maria-cristina.com, hpmc@maria-cristina.com, single $135, good downtown location.

Hotel Casa Colonial, Netzahualcoyotl #37, Col.. Centro Tel 312.7033 Fax 310.0395, info@casacolonial.com, www.casacolonial.com, charming restored grand home downtown, rooms ranging from $50 per night up to suites of $150.

Las Mañanitas, Ricardo Linares 107, Centro, 314.1466, 312.4646, www.lasmananitas.com.mx,
reservaciones@lasmananitas.com.mx , single $265 and up, reservations must often be made six months or more in advance.

Calinda Racquet Club, Francisco Villa 100, Rancho Cortés, Tel 101.0350,
reservas@calinda.com.mx, www.hotelescalinda.com.mx, single $147, nine tennis courts.

Holiday Inn, Díaz Ordaz 86, Col. Acapantzingo, Tel 362.0203, Holiday@cableonline.com.mx, www.holiday-inn.com.

HOUSES & RENTALS

Rental houses and apartments can be found in Cuernavaca, but short term prices are quite high and limited in number. Small two bedroom casitas with pool access and cleaning service can be rented for $1,200 and up per month. Weekly rentals of houses can sometimes be arranged. Please know that real estate, in comparison with the rest of Mexico, is expensive in this city. A recommended place for rental houses is Las Villas de Bellavista, Tel 777.317.1893, www.cuernavaca-rental.com, info@cuernavaca-rental.com. 

LAUNDRY

These are located throughout the city.  A reliable one  is Lavandería La Glorieta, San Jerónimo 302, 313.5315 or your lodging can recommend one. They will fold and iron clothes at additional cost. It is not self service, and you must leave your laundry and pick up the next day. Cost for three kilos (close to six pounds) is $3.00 US. Bring a plastic bag with you to carry soiled laundry.

Dry Cleaning—Euroklin, Morelos Sur 801, Colonia Las Palmas
There is also a dry cleaners in Plaza Laurel. 

MACHISMO

Most Mexican men are exemplary gentlemen, but there is a cultural component known as machismo. Foreign women seem to be favorite targets. If comments are made or unwanted attention occurs, it is best to politely ignore them. There are a few "professionals" in the city who go after foreign (especially blonde) women. One current ploy is to twist a paper napkin in the shape of a rose and send it to your table in a restaurant or bar. Enjoy the flattery if you wish, but it is not wise to encourage anything else. Some women unknowingly invite rude or aggressive behavior by their manner of dress or actions. Appearing to be intoxicated, wearing provocative, revealing clothes, dancing very close, and using obscenities are all interpreted as signals by Mexican men, and unwanted attention may come your way. Women should also be careful in taxis. They should never sit in the front seat or enter a taxi when there is another man riding in the front with the driver. Conversation with a driver should always be on the proper side, and drivers should always be addressed with the formal usted, never the informal form of tú.

Obviously such behavior by men is completely unacceptable.  It is a cultural reality, however, and unfortunately is a part of everyday life in Mexico. 

MAIL AND PACKAGES

Bring some U.S. stamps along with you if you want a letter or postcard to be received quickly. Try to find a reliable fellow traveler who will carry it back for you and deposit it in the U.S. mail. You can purchase Mexican stamps for letters and postcards, but plan on at least several weeks for them to reach their destination. The local post office is located at the Plaza de Armas downtown. It is open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM.

For sending packages to and from Mexico it is best to use the services of a private carrier such as FedEx or DHL. Be prepared, however, for exceptionally high prices. To send a letter or very light weight package from the U.S. to Mexico by this service will cost about $30. It is dependable. In Cuernavaca the DHL office is located at Morelos Sur 1001, Colonia Palmas, 312.2256.

After finding some large treasure while shopping, inquiries are often made about shipping it out of the country. If you are dealing with a large, very reputable store, it can be done, but the cost will be high for reliable service. 

MAPS

Complete city maps are sold at the various Sanborn's locations—downtown, Plaza Cuernavaca and Galerías. They are most helpful in learning the city.

Since many Mexicans give directions according to landmarks, make your own notes about landmarks near your Mexican house, near your hotel, etc. Common landmarks are statues, glorietas (roundabout intersections), well known restaurants and discos, major stores, and historical places. 

MONEY

The Mexican currency is called a peso, and the smaller portions of it are called centavos. The exchange rate against the U.S. dollar changes daily. At banks and ATMs you will receive the highest rate.  There are many ATMs in town, inside supermarkets and by banks.

An easy way to become accustomed to the difference between pesos and dollars is to take a calculator and make a small chart of the value in dollars of varying quantities of pesos. After consulting your chart for a few days, your financial frame of reference will be established. You can print out a currency exchange “pocket sheet” on www.xe.com, the Universal Currency Converter website.

Traveler's checks of all kinds are widely accepted, however problems in cashing Mastercard traveler’s checks have been reported. You will need to show identification. Take your passport. The signatures must exactly match, or they may be refused.

Credit cards (Visa, Mastercard, and American Express somewhat) are widely accepted by most stores, restaurants and hotels. At the American Express office, Agencia Marín, Centro Las Plazas 13, downtown, 3126844, you can use your American Express card to get traveler's checks. Visa and Mastercard can be used to get cash advances through appropriate banks, but you need a PIN number. You can also have someone in the U.S. send funds to you through the American Express Moneygram. Any major credit card may be used. The toll free number in the U.S. is 800.543.4080. The money will then be sent to the Agencia Marín, mentioned previously. The funds should be available within a few days, and you will need identification to claim them.

ATM machines (cajeros automáticos) are available throughout the city, and they are reliable for withdrawing pesos. Banamex honors Cirrus and Plus cards. You must know your PIN number, and it would be wise to check with your card company before arrival. Personal checks are almost impossible to cash, and you should not rely upon these for emergency cash.

Tipping - Mexicans do not usually tip taxi drivers, unless they carry your luggage. Generous tips of 15 - 20% are left by local people in bars, clubs and restaurants. In Cuernavaca many Americans have a reputation for not remembering to tip in bars and clubs, and as a result often receive poor service. Hotel and airport porters should receive about $1.50 US per bag. 

MOVIES

Seeing a movie at a local theater is an excellent way of practicing your Spanish. U.S. films are surprisingly current and will either be dubbed or have Spanish subtitles. To find out theater locations and show times it is best to buy a local newspaper such as the Diario de Morelos or La Unión. The theaters also have websites.

Good theaters in town are the Cinemex, two locations: Diana, next to Mega Comercial and Galerías, and Jacarandas, Av. Cuahnahuac. Tickets are $3 - 6. The newest theater is the Cinépolis in Galerías. There is even a VIP section with reclining lounge seats and food available through waiters. 

NIGHT LIFE

A recommended downtown area for bars is the downtown Plazuela del Zacate. It has a lively outdoor atmosphere and is filled with small bars offering trova music (contemporary folk music).

Quieter Bars with Live Music
Villa Béjar - Avenida Domingo Diez 2350

Las Mañanitas - Ricardo Linares 107.

Los Quetzales (Hotel Villa del Conquistador) - Paseo del Conquistador 134, dancing also to Latin music.

Maximilian's - Galeana 29, Col. Acapantzingo.

Clubs or Antros
Among younger people there is a routine circuit. For example, this year Ta’izz may be the choice for Wednesday night, and another is the in spot for Saturday. Ask the local people, as these change rapidly. In most cases expect to pay a cover charge (sometimes as high as $20), and plan on drinks being more expensive than in other places. A national mixed drink can be up to $5, and a local beer will cost about $2. Many Mexicans order a bottle of rum for the table. It will come with mixers, six glasses and ice. Be careful not to order an imported drink such as Scotch, as costs can be high. Also, be prepared for very late nights. These clubs usually open their doors at 10:00 PM, but often the music does not begin until 11:00 PM or even midnight. They keep going until about 5:00 AM. Those needing a taxi at very late hours should ask the doorman for help and take a radio taxi.. Shorts should not be worn, and shoes which are not tennis shoes or sandals are a better choice. Age 18 minimum.

(Note: These are difficult to keep current, as some open and close without much notice.)
Ta'izz - Bajada Chapultepec 13, Col. Chapultepec, cover charge.   Open Fridays and Saturdays, 10pm - 4am.

Alebrije - Plan de Ayala 405, Col. Teopanzolco, open Fridays and Saturdays 10pm - 4am, the newest one in town.

Mambocafé - for salsa music and dancing.

Bars
Freedom - Avenida Plan de Ayala 501, Plaza Cristal, Colonia Teopanzolco.

La Estación - Blvd. Benito Juárez #2, Centro, facing Palacio de Cortés.

La Tepocata - Juárez 4, Centro, in front of Palacio de Cortés.

Los Arcos - Jardín de los Héroes, Centro, Tel 312.1510, good music and great for people watching. 

RESTAURANTS

Cuernavaca is filled with beautiful restaurants. Some are very luxurious, and prices are very reasonable by U.S. standards. Visiting these restaurants makes a very enjoyable outing.

Deluxe
Las Mañanitas, Calle Ricardo Linares 107, Centro, 362.00.00, reservations usually required   World famous, exquisite gardens with sculptures by Zúñiga.  This is an absolute must go place, but more for the location than the food or service. If you don't want to have an expensive dinner (entrees average $35), at least go for a drink. M- SU 8am – 11pm.

Gaia, Benito Juárez 102, Centro, across from the Palacio de Cortés, reservations suggested, 312.3656. Beautiful setting, well presented food, most truly gourmet menu in the city. M-TH 1pm – 11pm, F, SA 1pm – 12am SU 1pm – 6pm.

Los Cilantros, Avda. Paseo del Conquistador 14, 313.0954, upscale, creative Mexican food, TU-SU 9am – 8pm.

Casa Hidalgo - Calle Hidalgo 6, Col. Centro, 312.2749, 312.9505, international food. A beautifully done restaurant overlooking Palacio de Cortés, nice bar terrace.  M-TH 1:30-11pm, F-SA 1:30-12am.

El Madrigal - Sonora 112, Col. Vista Hermosa, Tel 100.77.00 In a lovely setting, there’s even a fountain in the kitchen to relax the staff, and service is excellent.
TU – SU 12:00pm to closing.

Misión del Sol - Avda. Gral. Diego Díaz González 31, Col. Parres, excellent Sunday brunch with fresh, natural foods. Beautiful, relaxing atmosphere in this upscale spa.

El Rincón del Bife - Av. San Diego 1001, Col. Vista Hermosa, 315.4794, 316.4428, lovely garden, excellent Argentine style beef, M-Sun, 8am – 11pm.

El Rincón del Mar—Av. Río Mayo Esq. Rio Bravo 22, Col Vista Hermosa, sister
restaurant of above, seafood specialties, beautiful atmosphere.
TU – TH 1:30pm – 11pm, F, SA – 1:30pm – 12:0pm, SU 1:30pm – 8pm.

Moderate
Marco Polo - Calle Hidalgo 30, Centro, Tel 318.4032, facing the cathedral, a good downtown meeting place. Very popular with students, flavorful pizzas. Sit on the balcony and overlook the lively street scene.
M-TH 9am – 10:30pm, F-SA 1pm – 12pm, SU 1 – 10pm.

La India Bonita – Dwight Morrow 15, Centro, 312.50.21, oldest restaurant in Cuernavaca, traditional Mexican food, located in the former home of Ambassador Dwight Morrow, and named after the mistress of Emperor Maximiliano. Friday show with music and dance.TU – SA 9am – 9pm, SUN 9am – 5pm.

Club de Golf Los Tabachines—Paseo Tabachines s/n, 314.33.96, a lovely Sunday brunch for $15. At the gate tell them you are going to the restaurant.

Los Colorines – Emiliano Zapata 598, Col. Tlaltenango, informal Mexican food
M – SU 8am – 8pm.

Hostería Las Quintas - Av. Díaz Ordaz 9, Col. Cantarranas, 318.3949 One of the nicer garden restaurants, brunch on weekends.

Vivaldi - Pericón 102, 318-0122 Have dinner or a coffee and pastry to classical music.

La Tortuga Cucufata - Av. Domingo Diez 1460, 311,48,10 SU – M 9am – 10pm
Immense tacos!

Carlos ‘n Charlie's - Domingo Diez 711, 311.2065  Fun atmosphere and good ribs.

La Guadalupana, Rio Mayo 5, Col. Vista Hermosa, nicer Mexican cantina with dining tables around a pool 314.16.01 M – SA 1:30pm – 12pm, SU 1:30pm – 6pm.

Sushi Itto - Japanese food, Río Mayo, Col. Vista Hermosa 31.0196.

Sanborn's- Benito Juárez y Abasolo 313, near Palacio de Cortés, in Plaza Cuernavaca and Galerías. A bakery, candy shop, good assortment of books and magazines.

VIPS - Benito Juárez 9, near Palacio de Cortés.

Log Yin - Morelos 46, Col. Acapantzingo, 312.4142 Szechuan, Mandarin and Cantonese food M-Th 1pm – 10pm, F, SA 1pm – 11pm, SU x

Casa Thai—Tepozteco 100, Esq. Estrada Cajigal, Col. Reforma, 372.05.75 (behind Sam’s Club), Thai cuisine, M – SU 9am – 10pm.

Teely Bistrot – Plaza Laurel, Avila Camacho 274, 311.9193 Francomexican cuisine, great crepes M-SA 8am-9pm.

Budget
Subway - across from Zócalo downtown, Plaza Laurel, Galerías
McDonald's - across from Zócalo downtown and in Plaza Cuernavaca
Burger King - Plan de Ayala

The upper floors of Plaza Cuernavaca and Galerías have food courts with a variety of good, inexpensive food.

There are coffee shops everywhere, including Starbucks in Galerías and on Río Mayo. A recommended Mexican one is Italian Coffee Company, located next to Superama on Río Mayo. 

SHOPPING

You will be greatly tempted by the low prices and beautiful workmanship found in the artesanías (handcrafts) of Mexico. To the side of the Palacio de Cortés downtown is an open air market with a little of everything. This is definitely a place for bargaining.

Some shops close between 2:00 and 4:00 PM. The exceptions are Plaza Cuernavaca and Galerías where most stay open until 9:00 PM.

For finer quality artesanías
Azahares - Emiliano Zapata 810, 317.0132

Creaciones Izcalli - Hidalgo 26, Centro (below Marco Polo) 318.8880, Mexican clothes which can be custom made in a few days. There is a second larger location in Vista Hermosa, Av. San Diego 823 in the Plaza Caracol, Tel 316.1264. This store carries Mexican top designer names of tropical clothing.

There is a wide selection of artesanía stores in Tepoztlán.

Antiques - Casa de Antigüedades, Gutemberg 206

Books - Librería Cristal across from Zócalo. There are several book stores in Plaza Cuernavaca. Check book sections at Sanborn's and Comercial Mexicana.

Art - If you would like to purchase art directly from a recognized Mexican artist contact Rolando Guillermoprieto, Tel 735 352.9618, rguillermoprieto@hotmail.com, in nearby Cuautla. He will invite you to his studio and discuss his work with you. He has been a visiting Fulbright Professor of Art.

Shopping Centers
There are the usual chain discount stores in Cuernavaca - Costco, Sam’s Club and a Super Walmart.

Plaza Laurel, on Avila Camacho. In it are located banks, a vegetarian restaurant,
Subway restaurant, Teely’s restaurant, a beauty salon, a dry cleaners, two ATMs in banks, a Mexicana Airlines office, and a Santa Clara ice cream shop. Reward yourself for arriving with some of the best ice cream you will ever taste.

Plaza Cuernavaca - A large semi-enclosed mall with many U.S. American style goods. Many shoe stores, Radio Shack, Sears and various others. Food court is located upstairs.

Centro Las Plazas - Downtown mini mall with camera shops and other small stores.

Galerías de Cuernavaca - new and elegant, with a branch of Mexico’s largest department store, El Puerto de Liverpool, and many luxury stores. On Calle Diana.

For things such as the alarm clock you forgot...
Woolworth's downtown on Guerrero. Downtown there is also another MegaComercial Mexicana on Morelos, heading away from the Zócalo.

Music
MixUp in Plaza Cuernavaca or Galerías. Prices for tapes and CD's made in Mexico are reasonable, but imported music is costly. Also check the music section of Comercial Mexicana.

Mariachi Music - Mariachi Vargas is considered the best. Others are A. Fernández and Garibaldi.

Guitar Trios - Trío Los Panchos are the classics.

Longtime favorites are Luis Miguel and Alejandra Guzmán.

A sort of folk music with sometimes social content is called canto nuevo, and leading stars are Silvio Rodríguez, Pablo Milanés and the group Mexicanto. Trova is similar.

Fresh Flowers - You can often buy fresh flowers on the street or along the roadside, as the state of Morelos is a commercial rose growing area. A dozen long stemmed roses can be less than $3. Be extravagant and take some home to your Mexican mother! A more formal shop is Floristería Vista Hermosa, Río Bravo 23, Col. Vista Hermosa, 322.4907, samriver23@yahoo.com.

Newspapers - Local newspapers are the Diario de Morelos and La Unión. The biggest Mexico City papers are Reforma.and Universal.. The Mexico City English newspaper is The News.

Film and Developing - Foto Alameda, Morelos 138, Centro and in Plaza Cuernavaca has one hour developing. A nice gift for your Mexican friends is to take a picture of the whole family, have it enlarged, and present it in a nice frame.

Public Market - This is called the Centro Comercial or Adolfo López Mateos Market and is located close to downtown. A favorite part of this market is the large flower section. It is also interesting to see heaps of herbs used in natural medicines. There are signs describing what they claim to heal. The meat market is for strong stomachs only, but still interesting. Be very alert to pickpockets and purse snatchers in the crowded market. 

SPANISH STUDY

Some tips gleaned from thirty years of teaching and observing Spanish students:

1. Listen! Some students are so busy talking that they never hear all the patterns that are around them. If you listen carefully to what is said to you and around you, you will learn "the music" of the language, and high frequency phrases will start rolling out automatically.

2. Keep a vocabulary notebook. For each new situation you encounter write down key nouns and verbs. If it's a small pocketsized notebook, you can carry it around with you. Be sure to write the gender of the nouns, also.

3. Practice nouns by saying them aloud and modified with common adjectives. Example: el problema. Hay un problema. Hay muchos problemas. Es un problema muy serio. Este problema es muy malo. By doing this, correctly modified adjectives and other words will feel right to you and will come out more spontaneously.

4. Practice verbs by conjugating them in the most logical tense where they would normally be used.

5. Watch a telenovela to learn conversational phrases often used between friends, lovers and families.

6. Memorize the words to songs. It will help your pronunciation and provide you with great grammar examples which you won't even have to think about to produce.

7. Instead of trying to learn every grammatical rule in the language concentrate on the high frequency areas and work on mastery of them. Then move on to the finer points.

8. Notice the way Mexicans use those sticky grammatical areas such as ser vs. estar, and por vs. para.

9. Be easy on yourself. Do not demand perfection. The important thing to do is to communicate. With time and work that communication becomes refined. Think of your Spanish as a house you are building. At first it is just a basic shelter, but with effort it becomes a palace. Yet it has to be built stone by stone. In the final stages you will be polishing the stones.

10. Before you are in a situation here in Mexico, look up the key words you will need. For example, when looking for a specific item, look up some descriptive words about the item. Practice ahead of the situation a "script" that you will have in your head.

11. Don't re-invent the wheel! By talking with your teachers and family, listen to the way they phrase things. Copy these patterns, alter them a bit when needed, and sing back the song.

12. Many students like to bring with them a paperback dictionary and the book 501 Spanish Verbs. This book is difficult to find in Cuernavaca and much more expensive in Mexico. 

SPORTS AND OTHER ACTIVITIES

Outdoor Adventures
Rock climbing, rafting 322.6555, 01.800.728.4312,
www.mexicooutdooradventure.com

Bowling (boliche)
Spring Bowl, Domingo Diez 1042

Tennis
Cuernavaca Racquet Club, Francisco Villa 100, 311.3678

Tennis Palace, Paseo del Conquistador,  903, 313.6500

Villa Internacional de Tenis, Subida a Chalma,  914, 380.0507

Horses
Centro Hípico Morelos, Carretera Tepoztlán km. 3.5, Frac. Limoneros, Ahuatepec,  382.0368   

Swimming
Temixco Aquatic Park, 325.0197, 325.0355, 10 minutes from Cuernavaca Carretera Federal Mex.Acapulco, Km. 25, many pools and waterslides and a wave pool.  Morelos is a state with many water parks (balnearios).

At Coral Gables and Gold's Gym, there are pools. See following.

Gyms with Weights and Machines, Aerobics
Coral Gables Spa & Fitness Center, San Jerónimo 207, Col. Tlaltenango, 311.1407, Beautiful club with new equipment, cafeteria and nursery. One visit about US $6

Sport Center - Morelos N. 1230 (at the corner of Pradera), $25 per month.

Gold’s Gym, Río Mayo 17, Col. Vista Hermosa, www.goldsgymcuerna.com.mx, 314.4344, large heated lap pool

Golf
Club de Golf de Cuernavaca - Viveros 1, 314.0235. This is the less expensive one.

Club de Golf Tabachines - Frac. Los Tabachines, 312.9935 The cheapest rates here are on Tuesday, - Friday and after 1:30 on Saturday or Sunday. Closed Mondays.

Since these are private clubs you should call ahead and expect greens fees of $35 and up on weekdays and $60 to $160 on weekends and holidays. Caddy fees are about $10, and golf club rental is about $10. Golf cart rental is $25 for two.

Go Carts
Kuernakarts, Paseo del Conquistador 77, Col. Del Empleado, minimum age 4, Tues - Sun, 10am -  7pm. 

Video Games
Recórcholis, Galerías, daily 11am - 11pm

Music (guitar and singing lessons)
Juan Alejandro - $12 per hour. Tel 394.2528. Classes offered anytime after 2:00 pm seven days a week.

Cooking school
La Villa Bonita School of Mexican Cuisine, US toll free 800.474.3975, www.lavillabonita.com, in nearby Tepoztlán.

Concerts and Dramatic Presentations
Cuernavaca is rapidly growing in its arts presentations. They are usually announced through posters and in the events section of the local newspapers. Most occur in the Jardín Borda, Centro Cultural Universitario or the Teatro Ocampo. Prices are always reasonable, and you may have the luck to come across some outstanding talent. 

SUPERMARKETS

MegaComercial Mexicana – (sometimes just called Mega) downtown, La Selva and near Galerias

Superama - on Avila Camacho near Plaza Laurel,. Also on Morelos halfway and on Río Mayo. All accept credit cards.

There is also a Sam's Club and Costco, and if you have a U.S. membership, you can use it locally. 

TELEPHONES

There is a limit for local calls, and calls over that number are charged. It is not very high, but it can add up if you spend a great deal of time on the phone. Please be considerate.

To call Cuernavaca from the U.S. precede the seven digit local number with 011.52.777. These first numbers are to make an international call, 52 is the country code, and 777 is the area code.

Three digit area codes were added in Jan 2002, so all numbers should have a total of 10 when using the code.

To call long distance from Mexico the best way is to buy a prepaid international phone card for about $10. It is good for 40 minutes of calls to the U.S.

National calls - preceded by 01. Canada and the U.S. - by 001. International calls to other countries - by 00. Operator assisted international calls - by 090.
Toll free does not always mean a free call in Mexico, and there will sometimes be charges.

Some other ways to call from Mexico:

1. Call collect. There may be an added charge in Mexico of about $1.00.

2. Another way is to use the national toll free number for AT & T. Dial 01.800.288.2872. You can use any major credit card. Also, you can dial the access code of the service you may have, but there will be a cost for these, as they are not toll free in Mexico.

3. Another choice is to buy the Ladatel card, especially for local calls. This is a plastic card with a computerized chip, and it comes in different peso denominations beginning with 15 pesos. The cards can be bought at many places throughout the city, and they are also available at Sanborn's downtown and in Plaza Cuernavaca. They may be used for both national and international calls. They can only be used in special Ladatel phones. Dependable ones are at Plaza Cuernavaca. There is a downtown one located at Sanborns. 3 minutes to the U.S. - about $3.00. Note that this is higher than buying a prepaid international phone card.

4. If you want to make a high volume of calls, consider buying (as cheap as renting) a cellular phone at MegaComercial La Selva, among others. With it you can buy a prepaid calling card and renew as needed.

5.  If you have a Verizon (IUSA Cel) or Sprint (Telcel) phone, it may be possible to convert these for use in Mexico through the stores’ headquarters in Plaza Cuernavaca. You are assigned a local cell number, and it costs about US$.25 to receive a call. You can buy a prepaid plan to call out. This is like a second identity for your phone, and you will have to switch it back on your return to the US. 

TELEVISION

There is cable service in most areas, including premium channels and the American Network. Some people have satellite dishes for a wider program choice.

If you have access to a television while in Mexico it can be of great help. Commercials are a great way of observing how commands are used. The telenovelas (soap operas popular with both sexes in Mexico) are often in historical settings and a fun way to learn. Unlike soaps in the U.S. they are more like extended miniseries and have limited runs. Usually there is at least one which is widely popular at the time, and it's a good source for conversation using the past tense or speculating about what will happen in the next episode. 

TIME

Cuernavaca is on Central Standard Time and in 1996 adopted Daylight Saving Time.

 

TRANSPORTATION

Rental Cars - This is not particularly recommended, as rental cars are expensive and driving can be difficult when the driver is not accustomed to the Mexican style of driving and heavy traffic. If you choose to do it, however, renting the car from the U.S. before you come will be a much cheaper way, even up to half the cost. Local agencies are Hertz Morelos Rent-A-Car, Plan de Ayala 300, 314.3800 and Dollar, Av. Zapata 904, 317.3791.

Taxis - They are quite abundant, cheap, and an easy way to get around the city. All taxis are white and will have a LIBRE sign in the front windshield if available. There are no meters, but there is a general understanding about acceptable fares. It is always wise to ask ¿Cuánto cobra a .......? before entering the taxi. Expect to pay more at night or when it is raining. The fare is not per person, but a fare for all who will fit in the taxi unless several different stops are made. Drivers are not usually tipped unless you have luggage.

You should carry peso coins and small bills with you for taxis, as often a driver will tell you he has no change (cambio). Women should not ride unaccompanied in a taxi if it is very late at night and should not ride in the front seat with the driver.

The most secure taxi service (especially late at night) is a Radio Taxi. Tel 311.5325 Citlalli, others 317.3766/ 317.3776.

It is a good idea to write these numbers on a card to carry with you. Radio taxis charge a little more, but they can always find the address, and you should never have any problem this way.

One of the first things you should do is to find out which major landmark is near you and also know the name of the colonia or neighborhood. Learn to give directions in Spanish once you are in the general area.

Rutas - These are minibuses which travel throughout the city. They have numbers or names on the front and have certain routes. Many will pass by the downtown area. They are less than 70 cents, but be prepared for crowded conditions and be wary of pickpockets. Young women should not wear short shorts when using this mode of transport. Also, you must be prepared to board and get off quickly. Sometimes they don't make complete stops. If you do not have the ability to move quickly, for safety please avoid the rutas.

Buses - Many visitors use buses to visit nearby towns or to take them to other parts of Mexico.

To Mexico City and directly to the airport:
Pullman de Morelos - La Selva station near Plaza Cuernavaca. Buses for the city leave about every 30 minutes and are 1st class. You will end up in the Terminal del Sur in Mexico City and can easily find a taxi to take you to your next destination. This line also has direct airport buses. These take one hour and 30 minutes, sometimes two hours depending on traffic. Cost is about $13. It is best to buy your ticket one day ahead and check the departure schedule carefully, as it changes frequently.  See the schedule at www.pullman.com.mx. Departures start at 4:00 am, with the last bus at 11:30 pm.

Bus Line Oro - Buses to Puebla, depart every half hour. Bul. Cuahnáhuac Km 2.5, 320.6126

Estrella Blanca - Buses to Taxco every hour, also buses to Acapulco (Futura or Turistar buses are the best), station on Cuauhtémoc and at Morelos Norte 503. Tel 312.2626

Estrella de Oro - Nicest terminal and best buses to Acapulco with either downtown or Diamante area, and also to Taxco, Morelos Sur 900, 312.3055., www.estrelladeoro.com.mx

Estrella Roja—to Cuautla, Galeana esq. Cuauhtemotzin, Centro, 318.5934 

TRAVEL AGENCIES

If you want to change an airline ticket or travel more in Mexico, see one of these agents. If you are thinking about traveling by bus, you might check their air and hotel packages. Sometimes these are cheaper than you might find on your own and more comfortable and convenient. These are all located downtown.

Velasco Viajes - Lerdo de Tejada #5D, Centro,
314.1626, velascoviajes@yahoo.com.mx

Viajes Cuernavaca - Rayon 24-1 (off Morelos
near Cine Morelos) 314.2949
vicume@grupocuernavaca.com.mx

Agencia Marín, Centro Las Plazas 13, downtown
314.2266, viajesmarin@viajesmarin.com.mx
American Express office 

TRAVEL TO AIRPORT

At the Casino De La Selva station you can get a Pullman de Morelos bus directly to the airport. It makes stops at both terminals. It is wise to buy your ticket at least a day in advance. The cost is about $13.

Airlines now require that you check in for an international flight three hours in advance of your departure time. Plan on extra travel time to Mexico City if you are going in during peak traffic.  

TRAVEL DOCUMENTS

To enter Mexico and return to your departure country, you need a valid passport. It is recommended that you renew your passport if it will expire within six months of your departure from Mexico.

Your arrival airline will give you a tourist card to fill out. Most commonly these have been handed out while in flight. When you land in Mexico the duplicate part will be torn off and kept by the inspector. When you depart the country you must give back the remaining portion to customs. It is quite important that you carefully keep this small piece of paper. If you lose this tourist card you will have to arrive early at the airport, go to the 2nd floor, office #78, request special permission, and pay a fine. This is not always easily accomplished, and it may take a good deal of time. To prevent this problem, make a copy of your tourist card and keep it in a separate place from the original.

WHAT TO BRING

A washcloth (some Mexicans do not use these)
Small packages of tissues (Kleenex) to carry with you for the public bathroom, just in case...
Mosquito repellent - If rains are especially heavy, sometimes mosquitos emerge.
Camera with extra batteries
Wind up or battery type small alarm clock (Power failures are common, and these will be more dependable.)
Sunscreen and hat
Small garbage bag or paper sack for laundry
Fold up umbrella or plastic raincoat to carry
Sweatshirt, sweater or light jacket for cooler mornings and evenings
U.S. stamps
Pack lightly! You will not need a large amount of clothes, and you can depend on the fast and inexpensive laundry service. 

ZÓCALO

This section was needed so that the book could be completed with a "Z"! The word zócalo refers to the base of a statue and originated in the capital. The statue was late in arriving, but the word for the base became synonymous with the central square. It is used in Cuernavaca and in many cities throughout Mexico and is often used as a point of reference. 

Your Own Notes

All suggestions for additions to the book are always appreciated! Please email to kay@langlink.com.
 

Contact Language Link: Kay Godfrey, Director Latin American Office Meredith Butler, Director US Office 2008 W Kellogg Avenue West Peoria, IL 61604 USA

Toll free: 800.552.2051 World telephone: 309.673.9220 email: info@langlink.com

follow us on twitter , youtube or facebook